The New Canon 320EX The past few days I have been able to sit down and play with the new Canon 320EX flash. With this flash it seems that Canon went back to the drawing board to create just a basic flash with a few extra perks. With its manually adjustable flash head for 24mm or 50mm lens coverage (equivalent to 15mm or 32mm lenses on APS-C cameras) it covers a ton of range for the first time DSLR buyers who don’t want to drop $500 for their first flash. One of my favorite things about this flash would have to be the remote control transmission which is a new feature where you can fire the camera with the Speedlite 320EX. When held off-camera, press the flash’s remote release button, and fire the compatible EOS camera*. Another totally new innovation: a large LED illuminator for video lighting of nearby subjects, or for use as a viewing/focusing assist during still shooting which would come in handy for any low-light situation.

* Compatible EOS bodies for Remote Control Transmission: EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS Rebel T3i, T2i, T1i, XSi, XTi, XT, and original EOS Digital Rebel

1. Always use tripod (& camera remote control/cable release)

To be able to capture requires long exposure times ( 4-10 secs). You will definately need a tripod to do that kind of shot. There’s no way you can hold your camera for at least 5 secs without making any movement. The camera remote control is used to ensure that you won’t have to physically touch the shutter release thus eliminating the possibility of camera shake.

2. Your Focus Setting

If you have a point and shoot digital camera, try to set your camera to landscape mode which typically designated by an icon that looks like a small mountain range.  This will set you lens to infinity that will free you from any focusing issues.

If you have a DSLR camera, then it’s better if you set your camera to M (manual) mode and also manually set your lens to infinity.

3. Your Exposure Setting

There’s no exact rules for your exposure settings, where shorter exposures don’t always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce washed-out results. The beauty of Digital camera is that you can always check your picture before deciding the next exposure setting to get a better picture. My first fireworks picture is always set at ISO 100 at f/16 and 8 secs – I adjust the shutter speed from that point.

If you have a B (Bulb) shutter speed setting you can use it to control exactly how long your shutter is open. The trick is to open the shutter right at the beginning of the burst and close it when it reaches its peak.  You may want to bring a gobo (I will tear the cardboard off a legal pad) to cover the lens when in Bulb mode. You can remove the GOBO when a burst occurs, cover, remove, cover and add different explosions to one exposure……play around with your creative side!

Using one of the suggested apertures listed below, you can use your preview to test and then compensate the aperture accordingly.

ISO 50
Aperture range: f/5.6 – 11

ISO 100
Aperture range: ƒ/8 to 16

ISO 200
Aperture range: ƒ/11 to 22

It’s highly recommended that you’re using ISO 100, which makes  your correct aperture will be somewhere between ƒ/8 and ƒ/16. As I mentioned earlier, watch the first few explosions of the fireworks show in the camera’s preview. You don’t want the exposure to wash out the colors of the red, blue and green bursts. They should appear clearly, but they should show their actual color rather than wash out to a yellow/clear tone.

4. Always use the lowest ISO setting & Highest Quality Setting

In the digital world; long exposures, higher ISO settings, and even higher temperatures can introduce noise into your digital photographs. You can’t avoid long exposures when shooting fireworks, but you can always choose a lower ISO setting.

By choosing a high Quality-setting you will reduce the amount of compression applied to your images. Less compression means fewer image artifacts and ultimately better image quality.  Shoot RAW is your camera alows.

5. Bring extra batteries &  memory cards

Have backup batteries in the event that your primary batteries give out during the show.  Also don’t get so excited in the beginning that you fill your card before the grand finale. A good finale will produce peak light, color, and excitement. So make sure you have ample storage space available. Also make sure that your batteries have enough power to photograph the finale.

That’s it ! Good luck and enjoy the show…

FlashBenders represent a new approach to controlling light. FlashBenders are positionable.  You can bend a FlashBender into almost any position, and it will assume that shape, staying in position until you reform it.  Unlike static flash diffusers and bounce reflectors, dynamic Rogue FlashBenders allow you to direct light where you want it.

• Water proof
• Dustproof
• Anti-static Material
• Shock-resistant
• Viewing Windows

• Be prepared for the unexpected by always bringing along a Rainsleeve™
• Compact design fits easily in a bag or pocket
• Two great styles to protect your gear
• Designed for handheld use or tripod application
• Unique eyepiece opening adapts to most viewfinders for viewing through the lens – not plastic!
• Camera and lens controls are easily visible and operable
• The Rainsleeve™– Flash version has an extra area to protect the flash unit
• Drawstring lens opening offers easy access and a snug fit
• Includes two per package

• Small decorative disk attaches to the lens cap with adhesive pad
• Elastic loop goes around the barrel of your lens

Dozens of different styles to choose from.